The night before our walk, Malcolm was doing his best to warn (or scare) us about the walk through to Eyre Depot. He had heard many a tale of heart ache and tears, so just in case there was a smidge of truth to his tales, we decided to leave a little earlier giving us sufficient time for any unforseen outcomes. (code for stuff ups and slip ups).
We managed a pre 8am start at Buckaringa Gorge in the cool and cloudy morning. Armed with plenty of equipment for the day. Variable clothing to cope with Melbourne type weather (You know, four season in one day), topographic maps, Heysen book, GPS, and plenty of food and water. We headed off with much confidence that we could tackle anything this day, and as it turned out, we needed most of what we took.
A stroll through the Gorge soon brought us into a creek bed again, and like the obstacle course on the previous day, it slowed us up considerably. Again.
A few gems along the way though with a white Kangaroo stopping to say hello, some interesting rock formations and plenty of flora with splashes of colour among the green and ochre. We made our way in and out of the creek meandering uphill slowly but surely.
The five K mark rescued us from the creek and we headed up the hill above 500 metres. Up another hill, and up another hill, until finally atop the ridge which would take us all the way to Mount Arden, 12 K’s in from the Gorge.
The panoramic views in all directions opened up bit by bit as we topped each hill. The higher we got the windier it got also. We had been warned that the ridge is windy and usually in spite of any calm weather down below. So we were prepared with arctic style tops to fend off the icy blasts.
The ridge meandered left and right and up and down a little, before the final push up above 800 metres, to the summit of Mount Arden. At the top the wind was even more intense and absolutely relentless. It was only a short stay at the peak, to catch our breath and snap a few photo’s, before descending down the southern slope back to a more tepid temperature.
The drop is quite dramatic, but very tiring. I certainly would not want to be going up this section though.
Just after we saw horizontal ground again, the terrain opened up to a lazy creek with majestic old Gum’s and what looked like manicured lawn area’s either side. Every bit the public city park, but smack dab in the middle of the bush.
This is Mount Arden South camp site, and was very clear why it was here. Fantastic spot, so we stopped for a break, having lunch and resting in the natural beauty of the surrounds.
We headed off again refreshed, and wandering along the idyllic creek setting, we were easily lulled into the comfort zone in these gentle surrounds.
The easy walking was not to last though. After a few more K’s the terrain turned back to the “obstacle course” of rocky tracks and in and out of the creek again. It seemed to go on for like, “evar”. Pretty dramatic scenery, but pretty wild I have to say, and one of our more challenging walks.
Just when we thought we were nearing the end, the trail took us up the side of a very steep hill. So steep it had rope to hang onto. Great view at the top, but at this point we were a bit shagged to really care too much. Once back in the creek we meandered our way through the canyon until coming to a rather steep waterfall. No water flowing over it, however it was much too steep to climb down, so we back tracked to where the trail actually 
leads up the hill and around the falls.
A rocky dirt road (twisted my ankle here) took us eventually out of the hills and onto the plain at Eyre Depot.
The last 3 kms to the car seemed like the longest leg though. Funny how it is quite regularly the case.
Ps. The gate that we had passed through at Eyre Depot to drop the car off, now had a sign saying, “Trespassers will be prosecuted”.
The walk in to Eyre Depot is now 6 kms, not the 3 that we did. Best bet though if you are not doing an overnighter would be to get Malcolm from the Argadell’s to take you through Thompson’s Gap for a drop off or pick up.
In Short
Buckaringa Gorge to Eyre Depot
Distance : 27 kms (with an additional 3 km walk out)
Duration : 7 hours 1 min walking time. 2 hours 12 mins worth of breaks.
Pace : 4.3 kph
Terrain : Track (20%), steep hills/ridges(30%), and creek walking(50%).
And…….the rest
Only three more hills before Mount Arden. Or was it four, or five?
There is that song again. “and those big black birds they were circling in the sky”.
Argadell’s from Mount Arden
Looking north along the trail from north of Mount Arden
Now where did I leave the car?
Our Hosts for the weekend
It was very windy on the ridge. You need to dress warm for the occasion.
Lovely day for a stroll. Pity this view did not last.
Looking down the valley towards Eyre Depot, way off in the distance.
Grant and his lizards again.
Almost looks like the shape of my old Holden panel van.
The all seeing eye! Ancient rock carving, or natural formation?
Can you see the cat in this rock pattern?
Just before sunset, we headed off in the car. Tired but satisfied.
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We arrived in the dark on a dusty red track with thick scrub all around. An old blue tractor lit up in our headlights as we came upon the open grassy spread at the Homestead. It was only in the early morning light on the following morning that the dark veil was lifted revealing the oasis that is the 
Vague memories flood back as we wander the trail. Mostly not memories at all, just feelings and sensations of familiarity. A sense of comfort. Like coming home after a long journey. The connection through time though, cannot be explained, only experienced. The heart of this land clearly lives within me. Though I only dwell in this reality for short periods of time, my soul appears to be connected to the land.
On the narrow path on the side of the hill, I travelled back in time. Once again amongst my peers from Seacombe High. Our very fashionable 70’s gear seeming out of place in this environment, but also, just out of place! But a sense of wonder, along with blissful ignorance of youth made this a great time.
We paced steadily up the hill, stopping briefly at a ridge or two to catch our breath and admire the steadily expanding view. The track to the top is a little vague at times along this section. In scrubby bush, we meandered on and off the trail, keeping a keen eye on our GPS. Looking back at one stage I noticed something a little different about one of the Heysen signs I had just passed. Ordinarily, the arrow points up to indicate straight ahead, yet this one was pointing straight down. Intentional or not, I loved the humour of the directional indication.
Breaching the top of Bridle Gap, with the entry to the park boldly etched in the space, we paused to reflect on our journey from the Elders. Mount Alec and the receding ridge standing tall in our view. It only seemed like yesterday that, ….. Oh that’s right, it was just yesterday.
Off again after a short break, with the environment changing around us. Scrubby trees slowly giving way to taller native Pines, and eventually stately Gums dispersed in the manicured grassy land. Lazy Kangas and Wallabies not fussed by our presence, with only the slightest of a stoic glance, soon return to their languid tasks.
Today will be a big day. 30 kilometre walk with a 1.5 k walk in through Mayo Gorge. Walking past the majestic Elder Range, we will be trekking through the amazing Arkaba Station. Stunning views, ever changing geology and plenty of wildlife. We will end up at Moralana Drive in between two Titans of the Flinders. Elder Range and Wilpena Pound.
Feeling a little pensive about our walk today though. I was not feeling particularly well yesterday and with the pending 30 kms through some pretty remote country side, I was not feeling as confident as usual. We were well prepped though, with a days rest before and carrying extra gear and water for any unforseen events. My good lady had also given me some sound advice if we get lost and run out of food. “Eat Grant first” she said. My wife the ultimate survivor!
Fear though, is a funny thing. It is always important to take note of your feelings, but check that the fear is based on something real, and not just an irrational thought. Clearly I was just feeling a bit off, as once we actually got going, all seemed to be ok.
A Wedgy perched atop a nearby hill watched intently as we passed by. Waiting, I am sure, for us to stumble and fall, so he could pick our bones clean. A song popped into my head just at that moment, “The Holy Grail”. That particular line, “And those big black birds, they were circling in the sky”. (Betcha you are singing it right now too). Kinda felt appropriate with the Wedgy watching and waiting, as well as the fact we are on a quest for our own “holy grail”. It stayed in my head for quite a few k’s.
The left hand turn out of the creek was always going to be hard to find, so we kept a keen eye on our distance travelled, and the map. A bloody big fat old Gum with a very little Heysen sign marked our exit from the creek. A short break was in order before venturing up the hill though. We were not looking to break any speed records today. Into Arkaba Station we went. Over the hill and following the track for a while before taking a right down the hill and into a creek again. This time it was Slaty Creek. 
A young bearded dragon narrowly escaping a hungry crow, while we narrowly miss walking into a massive Orb weaver strategically strung across our path, just waiting for a delirious Heysen Trail walker to stumble in. Face height, I came to within 20 cms of wearing this very ornate eight legged face jewellery.
Slaty creek and into a feeder creek heading the wrong way. Took us 30+ minutes to work out what happened and to get back on track. Very easy to get lost in this hilly landscape. They all look the same. Even checking our direction was no help as the creeks meander from west, to north, then to east again in every kilometre.
I started hearing voices at one point, and in this sacred landscape, thought my spiritual ancestors were breaking through to speak to me, but alas, it was just Red Range camp site, and there was a quite a group. Chatting and having a great time. Now, ordinarily we would be stopping for a chat, but no time to waste today. With this being only our half way point, we picked up the pace.
Perfect place to pull up a rock and rest our bunions. The hills we now traversed were comprised of compacted red stone chips, which were devoid of all but the hardiest of plants. How the hell does anything grow in this stuff?
Every thing at peace, except maybe for our taste buds. The crisp bite from that first sip of amber joy, ruminating throughout my body in repeating waves. Ahhhhhhh.
We have been done over by our federal representatives (don’t laugh too loud) once again. Australians voted Labor out because of the Carbon Tax(among other things), and now it appears Turnbull’s Libs are about to sneak in an ETS (Carbon Tax) through the back door.
Day two in the Flinders Ranges. Crisp cool morning. Clear blue sky. I noticed a couple of clouds to the west just as we drove into Mount Little Station. A reminder of the previous days weather. A lovely spot for camping here at MLS, and Kate whom we had the pleasure to meet, greeted us with typical country hospitality. MLS is the closest accessible road to the Heysen Trail on this section, so here we are. Mike picked us up at the end of the road near Mayo’s Gorge, returning to Leigh Creek Road for the start of our walk. Ps. Thanks Mike for both days drop off’s.
(Leaving the old wagon, we climbed the stile and headed off on the trail, only to take a short break at the original Wonoka homestead. Beautiful stone work with a myriad of colours, with the Yourambulla Ranges in the back ground providing a memorable connection to todays story.
Once in the creek, we turned north, up-stream, or so we thought. Funny how your senses can occasionally deceive. We were on the trail, but we thought we were heading up stream. Quite clearly the river bed was telling us something quite different. Dead trees and debris on the oncoming side of the river trees, and a sand bank on the trailing edge. Clearly we were heading downstream. It just did not feel like it.
We wandered in and out of the creek, where ever the path looked easiest. The Heysen trail follows the creek all the way to Mayo’s Gorge, so little chance of losing the trail. Except maybe for the spot that Wononka Creek takes sharp left, with a feeder creek going straight ahead. Could have ended up in the Wide Ranges.
Beautiful country with Gums along the river and plenty of green salt bush filling in the surrounds. Still a few skittish Emu’s and Kanga’s not being particularly sociable, heading for the hills at first sight. Did I put on deodorant this morning? Starting to wonder.
Mayo Hut was well appointed, with bunks (with mattresses), a fire place, and even a “loo”. Oh what luxury! Being at Mayo’s hut means that we are almost done. Another couple of “K’s” and we exit through Mayo’s Gorge where Grant’s car is waiting with a nice cold beer. The Gorge was lovely, although lots of jaggard rocks to walk over at the start. Once at the car, we propped up the chairs, cracked open a beer, and just took in the the majestic Elder Range in the late afternoon sun. Cheers Grant.
We arrived early in the afternoon on a wet and windy day, with something you don’t see very often out here. Rain, and we saw plenty of it on our way north. Hawker had received 18+mm in a couple of days, which is great for everyone in the bush. It was relatively dry when we arrived, but the wind was still gusting above 50kmh as we would realise when we got to the top of the ridge.
A short walk today of 9 kms, from Jarvis Hill to Leigh Creek Rd. Half of the walk was along the ridge of the Yourambulla Ranges. Climbing the rocky ridge to the lookout, with a panoramic view opening up before us, we shifted our city brains out of gear and just allowed our minds to take in the pleasures of the Heysen trail. A valley to the left gave rise to another ridge standing tall and keeping ours company on the journey north. To the right the flat plain stretched out with incursions of hills, peaks, and ridges seemingly placed delicately to give an interesting view.
The rocky ridge line jutting out at a 30+ degree angle was not the easiest to walk on, particularly when it is a little wet and the wind is trying to blow you off the mountain, repeatedly.
We shared the trail with a few Wallabies and a couple of hairy goats, all of which were very shy, and disappeared down the slopes as soon as we came into view.
The combined tide gauges sea level rate around Kiribati (raw data is publically available) is 1mm per year (my calculation 1949 to 2016).
